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What should be the best practices for climbing in the Cirque of the Unclimbables and other climbing locations in the park? (Phase 2)
A Code of Ethics for the Cirque of Unclimbables (http://home.comcast.net/~gibell/cirque/codeofethics.html) was developed and posted by volunteers with the Cirque 2000 project, an initiative of the climbing community to protect and conserve mountain environments. What do you think of the Code of Ethics? Do you have suggestions for strengthening the Code of Ethics? What ideas to you have to encourage all climbers to respect the Code of Ethics?
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Comment 1 22 Dec 2009, 3:56 PM
I do not climb but have passed this on to those who have climbed in the past...
Comment 1.1 4 Feb 2010, 8:08 PM
Removed by moderator - the user requested it be removed
Comment 2 30 Dec 2009, 1:14 PM
What is the Cirque of the Unclimbables really like?
I have been fortunate to have explored the Cirque of the Unclimbables (as a canoe/hiker) a number of times over the past 20years. In asking people to comment on how the Cirque might fit into the new NNP-R Management Plan I think it would be helpful to provide a brief outline of the areas geography.
For starters pictures of the Cirque area and its Fairy Meadows can readily be found on the net. George Bell maintains an informative site.
The Cirque stands approximately 2500' above Glacier Lake with a south facing aspect. Access will be an issue in the new NNP-R. Early day climbers pioneered hiking trail up a steep rock fall from a trail that starts at the primative climbers camp at the north end of Glacier Lake. In the last 10 years a trail to the east has been worn with some impact through a forested area
on the east side of the creek flowing from the meadow. TBC
Comment 3 30 Dec 2009, 2:30 PM
What is the Cirque of the Unclimbables really like? Cont.
the entrance to the Cirque is a narrow gate close the east flank of Mount Harrison-Smith. From here the area opens up into the grassy Fairy Meadows with numerous large rocks scattered throughout.
The most obvious flat ground for camping is straight ahead. Climbers over the years have sought refuge from poor weather by camping under a few large leaning rocks. There are a number of narrow foot paths which lead from the meadow to the camps and hiking/climbing destinations. It is a fragile place for plant and wildlife alike. Access has been from the Nahanni River via a rough trail to Glacier Lake 10k, paddling an assortment of lake stationed canoes to the climber's camp 4k and then another 4k around Britnell Creek to a 2200' scramble/hike on the rocks or hike through the trees to Fairy Meadows.
The lake is accessible with float planes. Access to the meadow by helicopter has increased over the past 10 years.
Comment 3.1 29 Jan 2010, 7:22 AM
Wolfgang Weber, a photographing freelance member of our small German book publishing and film producing group, has twice been to Glacier Lake and Fairy Meadows - one time hiking up (and down) from (back to) South Nahanni via Glacier Lake and continueing on by, as you said, scrambling through rocks to FM, the true and unforgettable merit of which was to experience both the difficult hike and scramble to reach FM and to set up tent there, being rewarded by an almost undescribable paradise, quiet and awesome - the other time flying into FM by helicopter, which, as he said, more…
Comment 3.2 29 Jan 2010, 7:22 AM
Removed by moderator - this was a duplicate comment
Comment 4 21 Feb 2010, 9:29 PM
It would be great to see best practices implemented. I'm sure there must be good information from other parks (provincial, territorial and national) in Canada and the State. While the code of ethics is a good start, I think it can be enhanced. Go for it!
Comment 5 5 Mar 2010, 12:44 PM
All guidelines of leave no trace should be strictly followed. Simply put all users need to work to make sure that this area, remains pristine.
Comment 6 12 Mar 2010, 9:10 AM
When policy and guidelines are created, it's my opinion that preservation of a natural resource must be endured. The management plan is a living document throughout generations of managing the resource. In result, conservation practices are guidelines and cannot be governed, I'm suggesting to aviod all participation of an area if climbing includes any deteriation of the habitat. (Ie. motorized activity except for emergency personnel,No tolerance of mechanized climbing, tools for bolting on resources, no development of anchors for sport climbing etc., permits may become a way of monitoring expedition climbing groups etc.)
Comment 6.1 18 Mar 2010, 6:24 PM
Hi, FM is a wilderness area and should be managed as such. While I do not have a problem with helicopter access direct to the meadows (climbers with food, gear and equipment have trouble realistically accessing the meadows for an expedition with anything but as things stand), I think the meadows should be managed, trails marked to avoid the establishment of new ones, and camping areas established as needed to mitigate the impact.
I think bolting should be allowed but bolters encouraged to put in high-quality, durable, permitted gear and I think the emphasis should be on maintaining the wilderness experience while responding to actual uses, needs, and desires of paddlers, climbers, hikers and photographers.
The Circ is a classic climbing area and I hope very much that it remains so and that the new management plan will allow for all users to be accommodated.
Comment 7 18 Mar 2010, 11:03 PM
I climbed in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the summer of 2008. I was pleased to find the area in a similar condition to what had been described in stories from past years.
Despite the amazing location, massive granite walls, and inclusion of the Lotus Flower Tower in "50 Classic Climbs of North America", I do not believe the Cirque will ever be a busy place. The season is short, the weather is unpredictable, most of the climbing routes are very mossy, there is little hiking, and it is very remote and expensive to get to. Having said all of more…
